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Thursday 12 March 2020

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9 Must-Have Camera Accessories & Why You Need Them

Are you wondering which camera accessories to buy next? With such a wide range of equipment available it’s difficult to know what you need or where to begin. In this article you’ll discover 9 must-have camera accessories that will help you take better quality photos, protect your equipment and keep you shooting when disaster strikes.
camera-accessories

1. Fast Prime Lens

If you bought your camera with the standard kit lens it’s very likely you’ll want to purchase more lenses to increase the range of creative photographic opportunities available to you.
There’s a bewildering array of camera lenses available which makes choosing your first additional camera lens confusing. However, many professional photographers will tell you that your first lens purchase ought to be a fast prime lens.
camera-accessories-prime-lenses
A prime lens is one that has a fixed focal length – i.e. no zoom function. At first, this might seem a severe limitation however the image quality produced by a prime is superior to a zoom lens. This is mainly down to the fact there are fewer glass elements in a prime lens resulting in sharper images, less weight, less complexity and less to go wrong.
By “fast” we mean that the lens has a large maximum aperture size. This allows the capture of more light in less time, which means you can use faster shutter speeds, even in low light, and still get sharp, well-exposed results.
To check the maximum aperture of your lens look on the lens barrel for an f-number. The maximum aperture is displayed with a “f/” or “1:” prefix, e.g. “f/2.8” or “1:2.8”. The lower the f-number the faster the lens. A lens with an f-number of F2.8 or below is “fast”.
camera-accessories-prime-lens-f-number
An added bonus with large aperture sizes, particularly on DSLR and Mirrorless cameras, is that you can achieve a very desirable and attractive shallow depth-of-field. This creates a beautifully blurred background which is great for making your subject stand out against a distracting background or foreground.
Prime lenses come in a wide range of focal lengths – e.g. 24mm, 50mm, 80mm, etc.
A 24mm prime lens is fairly wide angle and therefore perfect for landscapes and any situation where you want to capture more of the scene. Wide angle lenses do result in lens distortion where straight lines look slightly curved and result in unflattering portraits with distorted facial features.
A 50mm prime lens is a great general-purpose lens which captures the scene as our eyes see it – with no lens distortion.
An 80mm prime lens is often chosen for portrait photography as it’s considered to be more flattering on facial features. It also means you can stand slightly further away from your portrait subject which is less intimidating than having the camera close to the face.

2. Tripod

tripod is essential for any kind of photography where you need to ensure the camera stays completely still as the photo is taken. This includes photography in low light, long exposures, landscape photography, self-portraits and macro photography. The SLIK Sprint Pro II GM Tripod below is a good example of a typical tripod.
camera-accessories-tripd-slik
In low light, your camera will need to use a slower shutter speed in order to capture enough light for a good exposure. If the camera moves while taking the shot the results will be blurry. A tripod solves this problem by keeping the camera totally still.
Product, landscape and portrait photography often involve taking many shots of the same scene. In these situations a tripod can act as a “third-hand”, freeing up your two hands for making adjustments to your product or portrait subject.
A tripod is really useful for sequence composite shots – where your subject is moving through the scene and you want to capture them several times to show the movement. To create the photo below I used a tripod to keep the camera in exactly the same position while I took several shots in burst-mode.
camera-accessories-tripod-multiple-exposure
Tripods come in many different sizes. Small or medium-sized tripods are usually sturdy enough to support a smaller, lightweight DSLR with a kit lens. The larger tripods are better suited to supporting larger DLSR cameras and longer lenses.
Budget tripods are often made of heavier, cheaper materials – so if you need a lightweight tripod choose one made from carbon-fiber.
If a regular sized tripod seems overkill for your kind of photography there are several more compact alternatives.
camera-accessories-tripod-manfrotto-pixi
Check out the Manfrotto Pixi Evo Mini Tripod above or one of the larger Joby Gorillapod tripods (below).
camera-accessories-tripod-gorillapod
Just make sure you choose a model large enough to support your choice of camera and lens.

3. Remote Shutter Release

How can you include yourself in a group photo without using your camera’s built-in timer? What’s a good way to photographing the birds on bird-feeder with your camera close-up without scaring the bird by being too close? Can you take a long exposure without introducing camera shake?
These are all situations where a remote shutter release can help.
Some cameras allow official or third-party remote buttons to trigger the shutter using Infra-Red or Bluetooth.
camera-accessories-remote-shutter-wireless
Others require a physical cable-release system – either connected to a dedicated socket on the camera or the flash hot-shoe.
camera-accessories-remote-shutter-cable
Remote shutter releases range from the most simple which just let you take a photo by pressing down the button, through to very complex and expensive models which include advanced timing (intervalometer) features so you can delay the shutter release, or take a sequence of photos at specific intervals.
camera-accessories-remote-shutter-intervalometer
Some cameras will even allow you to trigger the shutter from within an app on your smartphone. Check your camera’s user guide to see if this is an option.
Be sure to get the correct remote shutter release for your camera.

4. Polarizing Filter

Some photographic situations benefit from the use of filters as the photo is being taken. One of the most useful is a polarizing filter.
camera-accessories-polarizing-filter
A polarizing filter can reduce or even remove harsh glare from reflections, boost color saturation and darken blue skies. While some of these benefits can be recreated in post-production it’s preferable to get the camera to capture them at the point of taking the photo. This is especially true of removing reflective glare which is sometimes impossible to do in post-production.
Below, a shiny large-leafed plant was photographed first without a polarizing filter (left) and then with a polarizing filter (right). The second photo has kept all the detail which was lost in the shiny areas of the first photo.
camera-accessories-polarizing-filter-example
There are two types of polarizing filters – linear and circular. They have a virtually identical effect on your images but the circular polarizing filters are designed to make it easier for your camera’s metering system to get a good exposure.
camera-accessories-polarizing-filter-mounted
Remember to get the right size for your lens diameter. You’ll find the diameter shown in millimeters next to the universal “diameter” symbol shown below.
camera-accessories-polarizing-filters-lens-diameter-symbol
If you have several lenses with different diameters you’ll either need multiple filters – or you can just get filters for the lenses you’re most likely to use for landscapes or other outdoor shots.

5. Spare Batteries

When buying a camera you usually blow the entire budget on the body and lenses – so it’s rare that people think to buy a spare battery at the outset. However, it’s a really important addition to your camera bag as it’s so frustrating to have to stop taking photos unexpectedly. Having spare batteries allows you to keep shooting – and you can be charging the other battery in the meantime.
camera-accessories-batteries-and-charger
It’s always best to stick to OE (original equipment) batteries – that is to say, batteries made by the manufacturer of your camera. These are guaranteed to work as expected, have a longer lifespan and won’t affect your manufacturer’s warranty.
If you do decide to purchase 3rd-party batteries then stick to the better-known, respected brands such as Hahnel or Wasabi.

6. Memory Cards

New cameras usually come with a memory card installed – but often it has a very limited capacity. So, it’s highly likely you’ll need an additional memory card.
camera-accessories-memory-cardWhen choosing a memory card you’ll want to consider a few factors:

Which Card Format?

There are just a handful of basic card formats found on digital cameras. The most common is an SD (Secure Digital) card but you’ll also see CFast and XQD cards. Some older cameras will have the less common CF or Compact Flash card and manufacturers are definitely starting to leave this format behind.
The important thing is to check your camera’s user manual to find out what format your camera requires.

Which Card Speed?

Cameras that have high frame rates, large sensors or pixel counts, or which provide video capture usually require a memory card which is capable of handling larger amounts of photo/video data at high speeds.
Using a memory card which is too slow can result in the camera’s buffer filling up too quickly. The camera has to stop and wait for the buffer to start to empty before it can continue capturing photos or video. Therefore it’s essential you have a memory card capable of the speeds your camera requires.
Again, your camera’s user manual will tell you the minimum requirement.

What Card Capacity?

As camera sensors get bigger and pixel counts rise, so the need for larger memory cards increases too. It’s tempting to get the biggest memory card you can afford – but what if you lost or damaged that card before you got all the photos off it? It’s better to spread the risk of losing photos across multiple cards. So instead of buying one 64GB card, buy two 32GB cards. It’ll cost you more but the additional peace of mind is worth the extra cost.
Below you’ll find charts showing roughly how many photos you’ll be able to store on cards of different sizes. To use the charts, first pick either the JPEG or RAW chart based on which image capture format you prefer. Next, look down the left-hand column for the number of megapixels which is closest to your camera’s megapixel count. Lastly, look across that row to see the number of images each capacity (shown in the top row) can hold.
JPEG Images
RAW Images
camera-accessories-memory-card-raw-capacity-table

7. Memory Card Reader

There are several ways to get your photos off your camera. The most common is to connect your camera to your computer using a USB cable supplied by the camera manufacturer. WiFi-enabled cameras allow the wireless transfer of photos to your computer. Some computers have an SD card reader built in – so you can simply remove the SD card from your camera and plug it straight into your computer.
The most flexible method is to use a memory card reader as it can be used in more situations. For example, when your camera has run out of battery, or the computer you want to transfer photos to doesn’t have a built-in card reader, or when using WiFi isn’t an option.
The Transcend TS-RDF8K card reader below is popular, accepts several different memory card formats and offers fast image transfer via USB3.0.
camera-accessories-card-reader
Be sure to get a card reader that’s compatible with your card technology – otherwise, you may find transfer speeds are much slower than you’d like.

8. Camera Neck, Shoulder Or Wrist Strap

Not the most exciting item but perhaps one of the most important. Without a strap, you will drop your camera one day. It just isn’t worth the risk.
Most new cameras come with a basic neck strap – usually branded with the camera manufacturer’s name and logo. Typically these are thin, narrow and therefore not very comfortable when carrying your camera for long periods. They also draw attention to the fact you’re carrying around expensive camera equipment – which may not be wise.
Camera neck straps come in a variety of sizes, designs and colors – so you’re sure to find something you like.
The Mimi Green ‘Shelly’ Designer DSLR Camera Strap is a great example of something a little different and is available in several colors.
camera-accessories-strap
If you regularly carry your camera around with you for long periods of time, make sure you get one with a larger contact area over the shoulder – and with some padding.
Most simple straps leave your camera dangling down your front. This can be a nuisance as you’ll find you often bash it on things – especially with a longer lens mounted. Also, suspending heavy cameras and lenses from your neck can cause serious discomfort. A popular alternative to the neck strap is a shoulder-harness strap incorporating a connecting strap which passes under the arm. This keeps the camera on your waist or hip which you may find preferable. Importantly, the weight of the camera is supported by your shoulder, not your neck. The Movo Shoulder Strap pictured below shows how the strap is worn.
camera-accessories-strap-sling
Another good solution, if you don’t like having camera equipment hanging around your neck, is the wrist strap. The Altura Photo Camera Hand Strap below is a good example.
camera-accessories-strap-wrist-strap

9. Camera Bag

Protecting your expensive investment with a camera bag is really important. Don’t leave it until your camera has had a few knocks before you invest in a bag. Purchase one right at the start.
You’ll be pleased to know that camera bag styles have come a long way from the boring beige canvas bags of yesteryear. There are styles to suit every taste and budget. What they have in common is well-padded compartments for your camera and accessories.
Before choosing a camera bag it’s important to consider how much photographic gear you have. Allow some spare capacity for future purchases, such as some of the other items featured in this article.
Do you need to carry a laptop or iPad around with you too? If so, there are plenty of larger camera bags which offer padded protection for these – including the Kattee Professional Canvas SLR DSLR Camera Backpack Laptop Bag Case pictured below – which will accommodate a 14″ laptop and comes in black, blue or pink.
camera accessories bag kattee
Consider whether you want to draw attention to the fact you’re carrying around valuable camera equipment. Maybe you’d prefer to use a less noticeable bag or carry your camera bag inside another, less obvious bag. Aimed at female photographers, the Jo Totes Gracie Camera Bag below doesn’t look like a camera bag at all, yet it has the same padded compartments you find in more conventional camera bags.
camera-accessories-bags-jo-totes-gracie-mint

Camera Accessories: Summary

Hopefully, this overview of some of the available camera accessories helps you prioritize your photography accessory purchases.
To summarize, a fast prime lens, tripod, remote shutter release and polarizing filter will help you take better photos. A camera bag and strap will help protect your valuable equipment. Additional batteries and memory cards will keep you shooting.
With these things addressed, you can really apply your attention to the most important thing – taking great photos!

Camera accessories. கேமரா பாகங்கள்

Monday 24 February 2020

How To Smooth And Soften Skin With Photoshop

Written by Steve Patterson.
In this tutorial, I'll show you how to improve your portraits by giving your subject beautifully smooth skin with Photoshop! We'll start by learning how to remove pimples and other minor skin blemishes using Photoshop's Spot Healing Brush. Then, after the initial clean-up, we'll learn step-by-step how to smooth and soften skin without blurring important details, like the person's eyes, hair and so on, and while keeping as much good skin texture as possible.
To follow along, you can use any portrait photo. I'll use this image that I downloaded from Adobe Stock:
The original, untouched photo
The original image. Photo credit: Adobe Stock.
Here's a close-up of what the young woman's skin looks like initially:
A close up of the woman's skin before smoothing and retouching
A close-up of the original.
And here's what she'll look like after smoothing and softening her skin:
How to smooth skin in Photoshop
The final skin-softened result.
Let's get started!

How To Smooth Skin In Photoshop

I'm using Photoshop CC but this tutorial is fully compatible with Photoshop CS6 and earlier.

Step 1: Make A Copy Of The Image

With the image newly-opened in Photoshop, the Layers panel shows the photo on the Background layer. Before smoothing the skin, start by removing any unwanted blemishes. To protect the original image, you'll want to work on a separate layer. Make a copy of the Background layer by pressing and holding the Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key on your keyboard, clicking on the Background layer, and dragging it down onto the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel:
Duplicating the Background layer in the Layers panel in Photoshop
Duplicating the Background layer.
In the Duplicate Layer dialog box, name the layer "Spot Healing" and then click OK:
Naming the duplicate layer 'Spot Healing'
Naming the layer "Spot Healing".
A copy of the image appears on a new layer named "Spot Healing" above the original:
The image has been copied onto a new layer named Spot Healing
The initial skin cleanup will now be done on a separate layer.

Step 2: Select The Spot Healing Brush

Select the Spot Healing Brush from the Toolbar:
Selecting the Spot Healing Brush from the Toolbar in Photoshop
Selecting the Spot Healing Brush.

Step 3: Set The Spot Healing Brush To "Content-Aware"

Make sure the Type option in the Options Bar is set to Content-Aware:
Setting the Spot Healing Brush to Content-Aware in the Options Bar
Content-Aware should be selected by default.

Step 4: Click On The Skin Blemishes To Remove Them

Click on any unwanted skin blemishes with the Spot Healing Brush to remove them. Photoshop will instantly "heal" the blemishes by replacing the problem texture with good skin texture from the surrounding area. For best results, make your brush slightly larger than the blemish. To change your brush size, press the right bracket key ( ] ) on your keyboard to make the brush larger or the left bracket key ( [ ) to make it smaller. If the blemish hasn't completely gone away on the first try, undo your click by pressing Ctrl+Z (Win) / Command+Z (Mac) on your keyboard, then resize your brush if needed and click on the same blemish to try again.

Example: Removing Skin Blemishes With The Spot Healing Brush

If we look at the woman's forehead in my image, we see what looks like a large pimple just to the right of center. I'll position the Spot Healing Brush over it, and I'll make my brush slightly larger than the pimple itself:
Positioning the Spot Healing Brush over a skin blemish to remove it
Positioning the Spot Healing Brush over a skin blemish.
To remove the blemish, I'll click on it with the Spot Healing Brush. Photoshop analyzes the area I clicked on, finds good skin texture from the area surrounding it, and then blends the good texture in with the problem area's original tone and color. Like magic, the blemish is gone:
Clicking with the Spot Healing Brush to remove the skin blemish
Clicking to heal the blemish.
I'll do the same thing with another blemish on her forehead, keeping the Spot Healing Brush just a bit larger than the area I need to heal:
Positioning the Spot Healing Brush over a second skin blemish to heal it
Positioning the Spot Healing Brush over a second blemish.
I'll click on the blemish, and once again, Photoshop instantly removes it:
The second skin blemish is gone after clicking with the Spot Haling Brush
The second blemish is gone.
After a few more clicks with the Spot Healing Brush to clean up the remaining blemishes on her forehead, her skin is already looking much smoother:
The blemishes on her forehead and have been removed with the Spot Healing Brush
The blemishes have been removed from her forehead.

Removing Blemishes, Not Features

As you're retouching the skin, keep in mind that while it's okay to remove temporary problems like acne or other minor skin issues, it's usually not okay to remove permanent features like moles or even certain scars, as these are part of what makes someone who they are. After all, the goal of image retouching is to help people look their best, not to make them look like someone else.

Completing The Initial Skin Cleanup

Continue working your way around the person's face to remove any remaining blemishes. Here's a side-by-side comparison of what the woman's skin looked like originally (left) and after some quick retouching with the Spot Healing Brush (right). With most photos, this initial skin cleanup should take no more than a few minutes. I covered the Spot Healing Brush quickly here, but you can learn more about it in my Removing Acne, Skin Blemishes With The Spot Healing Brush tutorial:
A before and after comparison of the skin cleanup with the Spot Healing Brush in Photoshop
A before (left) and after (right) comparison of the initial skin retouching.

Step 5: Make A Copy Of The "Spot Healing" Layer

With the blemishes removed, we're ready to smooth and soften the skin, and again, it's best to work on a separate layer. Back in the Layers panel, make a copy of the "Spot Healing" layer by pressing and holding the Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key on your keyboard, clicking on the "Spot Healing" layer, and dragging it down onto the New Layer icon:
Making a copy of the Spot Healing layer in the Layers panel in Photoshop
Duplicating the "Spot Healing" layer.
In the Duplicate Layer dialog box, name the layer "Smooth Skin" and then click OK:
Naming the new layer 'Smooth Skin' in Photoshop
Naming the duplicate layer "Smooth Skin".
We now have the original image on the Background layer, the initial skin cleanup on the "Spot Healing" layer, and a new "Smooth Skin" layer above them:
The original image, the Spot Healing layer and the Smooth Skin layer in the Layers panel in Photoshop
The "Smooth Skin" layer appears above the "Spot Healing" layer.

Step 6: Apply The High Pass Filter

To smooth the skin, we'll use Photoshop's High Pass filter. Go up to the Filter menu in the Menu Bar, choose Other, and then choose High Pass:
Selecting the High Pass filter from under the Filter menu in Photoshop
Going to Filter > Other > High Pass.

Why The High Pass Filter Is Great For Smoothing Skin

If you're familiar with the High Pass filter, it's most likely because you've used it to sharpen images in Photoshop. Even though we'll be using High Pass to smooth skin, not sharpen it, many of the steps are the same. The High Pass filter looks for edges in the image and highlights them. An edge is an area where there's a big, sudden change in brightness or color between neighboring pixels. With portrait photos, the edges are usually along the person's hair, around the eyes, the mouth, and so on. Skin texture, on the other hand, has relatively low amounts of detail with much smoother transitions. These areas are not considered an edge, so rather than highlighting them, the High Pass filter fills these areas with neutral gray.
If we were sharpening the image, the High Pass filter would allow us to sharpen the edges (the details) without affecting the skin. But for smoothing skin, we use High Pass for the opposite reason. We'll detect the edges not so we can sharpen them but so we can smooth and soften everything except the edges. Let's see how it works.

The Radius Value

The High Pass filter detects edges and highlights them, and the Radius option at the bottom of the High Pass dialog box controls the "thickness" of the edge highlighting. In other words, once Photoshop has detected an edge, the Radius value tells it how many pixels on either side of it to include as part of the edge. Low Radius values will highlight only the finest details in the image. But to make sure we don't end up softening these important details, we need to highlight the areas around them as well, which means we need a larger Radius value. For a typical portrait shot, a radius of 24 pixels works well:
Setting the High Pass filter Radius value to 24 pixels in Photoshop
Setting the Radius value to 24 pixels.
If your subject is further back in the photo, or you're working on a lower resolution image, a smaller Radius value of 18 pixels or even 12 pixels might work better. Why these specific values? It's because it's important for the next step that you choose a Radius value that's easily divisible by 3. For example, 24 divided by 3 is 8, 18 divided by 3 is 6, and 12 divided by 3 is 4. Nice, easy numbers. Again, we'll see why in the next step.
Click OK to close the High Pass dialog box. Your image will turn mostly gray. Solid areas of gray are the non-edge areas with little to no detail, like the skin, while large, high contrast halos highlight the edges:
The image after applying Photoshop's High Pass filter to detect the edges
The result after applying the High Pass filter.

Step 7: Apply The Gaussian Blur Filter

We need to blur the High Pass filter effect. It may seem counterintuitive, but the blurring will actually help to bring out more good texture in the skin. Go up to the Filter menu, choose Blur, and then choose Gaussian Blur:
Choosing the Gaussian Blur filter from under the Filter menu
Going to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur.
In the Gaussian Blur dialog box, set the Radius value to exactly one third of the value you used for the High Pass filter. In my case, I set the High Pass radius to 24 pixels, so I'll set the Gaussian Blur radius to one third of that, which is 8 pixels. Click OK to close the dialog box:
The Gaussian Blur dialog box
Setting the Gaussian Blur radius to one third of the High Pass radius.
With the blurring applied, the High Pass effect now looks softer and less detailed:
The result after applying the Gaussian Blur filter
The result after applying the Gaussian Blur filter.

Step 8: Change The Layer Blend Mode To Linear Light

In the Layers panel, change the blend mode of the "Smooth Skin" layer from Normal to Linear Light:
Changing the blend mode of the Smooth Skin layer to Linear Light
Changing the layer blend mode.
This blends the High Pass result in with the image, creating a high contrast, over-sharpened effect. It may look terrible, but don't worry. It will look even worse in a moment:
The image after changing the Smooth Skin layer blend mode to Linear Light
The image after changing the Smooth Skin layer's blend mode to Linear Light.

Step 9: Invert The Layer

Go up to the Image menu, choose Adjustments, and then choose Invert:
Choosing the Invert comand from under the Image menu.
Going to Image > Adjustments > Invert.
With the layer inverted, the image goes from being over-sharpened to looking like a weird, blurry mess with big ugly halos around everything:
The image after inverting the Smooth Skin layer
The result after inverting the "Smooth Skin" layer.

Step 10: Open The Blending Options

To reduce the halo effect, click the Layer Styles icon at the bottom of the Layers panel:
Clicking the Layer Styles icon in the Layers panel in Photoshop
Clicking the Layer Styles icon.
Choose Blending Options from the top of the list:
Opening the Blending Options in Photoshop
Opening the Blending Options.

Step 11: Drag The "Blend If" Sliders

In the Layer Style dialog box, look for the Blend If sliders at the bottom. There are two sets of sliders, one labeled "This Layer" and one below it labeled "Underlying Layer". We need the top sliders (the ones labeled "This Layer"):
The Blend If sliders in the Photoshop Blending Options
The Blend If sliders.
Notice the slider below each end of the gradient bar. These sliders control how the "Smooth Skin" layer blends with the image below it based on the brightness levels of the layer. The slider on the left is used to blend the darker areas of the layer and the slider on the right blends the lighter areas:
Photoshop Blend If sliders.
The dark (left) and light (right) sliders.

Reducing The Light Halos

Start by reducing the lighter halos. Press and hold the Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key on your keyboard, click the slider on the right and begin dragging it towards the left. Holding the Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key tells Photoshop to split the slider in half so that as you're dragging, only the left side of the slider moves while the right side stays in place. Watch your image as you drag the slider and you'll see the lighter halos fading away. Drag the slider almost all the way to the left to reduce them as much as possible:
Blending the lighter areas of the Smooth Skin layer with the Blend If sliders
Dragging the left half of the slider on the right.
Here's the result after dragging the first slider. Most of the lighter halos are now gone, or at least, they're much less noticeable. Only the darker halos remain:
The image after reducing the lighter halos with the Blend If sliders
The lighter halos are gone after dragging the slider on the right.

Reducing The Dark Halos

To reduce the darker halos, press and hold your Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key, click the slider on the left and drag the right half of it towards the right. Again, you'll need to drag almost all the way to the right for most of the dark halos to disappear. Click OK when you're done to close the Layer Style dialog box:
Blending the darker areas of the Smooth Skin layer with the Blend If sliders
Dragging the right half of the slider on the left.
And here's my image after dragging both sliders. Her skin is looking very smooth, but so is everything else in the image. We'll fix that next:
The skin smoothing effect in Photoshop after dragging the Blend If sliders
The darker halos are gone after dragging the slider on the left.

Step 12: Add A Layer Mask

To limit the smoothing effect to just the skin, add a layer mask. Back in the Layers panel, press and hold the Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key on your keyboard and click the Add Layer Mask icon:
Clicking the Add Layer Mask icon in the Layers panel in Photoshop
Adding a layer mask while holding Alt (Win) / Option (Mac).
A black-filled layer mask thumbnail appears on the "Smooth Skin" layer. This hides the smoothing effect from view so we can paint it back in only where we need it:
A black-filled layer mask has been added to the Smooth Skin layer
A black-filled layer mask has been added to the "Smooth Skin" layer.

Step 13: Select The Brush Tool

Select the Brush Tool from the Toolbar:
A black-filled layer mask has been added to the Smooth Skin layer.
Selecting the Brush Tool.

Step 14: Set Your Brush Color To White

Make sure your Foreground color (the brush color) is set to white. You can see your current Foreground and Background colors in the color swatches near the bottom of the Toolbar. The swatch in the upper left is the Foreground color. If it's not set to white, press the letter D on your keyboard to quickly reset the colors to their defaults:
Setting the brush color to white
The Foreground color (the brush color) should be white.

Step 15: Paint Over The Skin

Before you begin painting, check your brush options in the Options Bar. Make sure that Mode (short for Blend Mode) is set to NormalOpacity is at 100% and Flow is also at 100%:
The Mode, Opacity and Fill options for the Brush Tool.
Making sure the Mode, Opacity and Fill options are all set to their defaults.
Then paint over the skin to reveal the smoothing effect. A soft-edge brush will work best. We already know that we can change the brush size from the keyboard using the left and right bracket keys. Add the Shift key to change the brush hardness. Press Shift and the left bracket key to make the brush softer, or Shift and the right bracket key to make the brush harder.

Example: Painting To Reveal The Smooth Skin

I'll start by painting over her forehead. Since we're painting on the layer mask, not on the layer itself, we don't see the brush color as we paint. Instead, we reveal the smoothing effect in the areas where we've painted:
Painting to reveal the smooth skin in the woman's forehead in Photoshop
Bringing back the smooth skin in the woman's forehead.
Next, I'll paint over her nose, her cheeks, and around her eyes to reveal the skin smoothing in those areas. Adjust your brush size as you go to avoid painting over details that should remain sharp. If you do slip and paint over the wrong area, press the letter X on your keyboard to set your brush color to black, and then paint over the mistake to hide the smoothing effect. Press X again to set your brush color back to white and continue painting to smooth and soften the skin:
Revealing the smooth skin in the woman's nose, cheeks, and around her eyes
Revealing more of the smoothing effect, but just over the skin.
Finally, I'll paint around her mouth and over her chin to smooth and soften those areas, while at the same time being careful to avoid her lips:
Smoothing the skin in the lower areas of the woman's face in Photoshop
Revealing the smooth skin in the lower areas of her face.

Viewing The Layer Mask

To see exactly where you've painted, press and hold your Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key and click on the layer mask thumbnail in the Layers panel:
Switching to the layer mask view in Photoshop
Holding Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) and clicking the layer mask thumbnail.
This switches your view from the image to the layer mask. The white areas in the mask are where you've painted to restore the skin smoothing. Black areas are when the smoothing effect remains hidden. It looks a bit creepy, but viewing the mask is a great way to make sure you haven't missed any spots, and you can paint directly on the mask if needed. To switch back to your image, once again press and hold Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) and click on the layer mask thumbnail:
Viewing the layer mask in Photoshop to see where the skin smoothing is visible
Use the mask view to look for any areas you missed.

Step 16: Lower The Layer Opacity

At this point, we've smoothed and softened the skin, but the effect is too intense. To reduce it, lower the opacity of the "Smooth Skin" layer. In general, an opacity value of between 40% and 60% works best, but it will depend on your image. I'll set mine to 50%:
Lowering the opacity of the Smooth Skin layer in Photoshop
Lowering the opacity of the skin softening effect to 50%.
And with that, we're done! Here, after lowering the layer opacity, is my final result with her skin now looking great:
The final retouched image with smooth skin in Photoshop

How To Smooth And Soften Skin With Photoshop